Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, is a city right out of the movies. With it’s Harry Potteresque vibe (the books were written here and take influence from the city), vibrant food scene, and vast whiskey offerings, there is truly something for everyone. We spent three days exploring the city and can’t wait to go back again to see more of the country.

Facts about Edinburgh

• Edinburgh’s population is a little over 500,000 and it has been the capital of Scotland since 1437.

• It sits on seven hills and is often referred to as the Athens of the north

• Edinburgh Castle, an iconic Landmark, sits high above the city on extinct volcanic rock and dates back to the 12th century.

• The largest art festival, The Fringe, originated in Edinburgh in 1947 and is held every year in August. Many famous actors and artists have been discovered here including Emma Thompson, Jude Law, Hugh Laurie, Judi Dench, Robin Williams, and Phoebe Waller Bridge (where she performed her first version of Fleabag) to name a few!

• It’s climate is temperate (and very similar to our climate in Malmö), making it an ideal destination anytime of the year with mild winters and cooler summers.

• The University of Edinburgh, started in 1582, is well known for its research and innovation - in fact the cloning of Dolly the Sheep was done here.

• It has an impressive food and whiskey scene, spanning all price points.

• The city’s Gothic vibe, Edinburgh Castle, Old Town (Specifically Victoria Street), and George Heriot’s School all provided inspiration for the Harry Potter Series. JK Rowling was influenced by the setting to create Hogwarts, Diagon Alley, the character names, and house system and much more.

How to get around in Edinburgh

We love to walk whenever we can as we feel this is the best way to get a feel for the city. But, there are many options for transportation and you do not need a car unless you plan to do excursions outside the city.

Walk

The city is very pedestrian friendly. Just remember to look the right way when crossing streets - everything is opposite of what you think it should be!

Bus

The bus system is good and can get you anywhere you need to go. Flat rate day tickets are available if you plan to use the bus ofte. This is your most economical option as an adult day ticket is £5 and a single adult ticket is £2. You can purchase tickets on the bus using card or exact cash or use their app. There is also a bus from the airport into the city that runs regularly and is the most economic way to get into the city from the airport.

Tram

The tram runs every 7 minutes from the airport and Newhaven at the coast, going through the city center. You can purchase tickets at any tram stop before you board the tram. Ticket prices vary based on stops and time and you can also get multi-day tickets.

Uber / Bolt / Cab

Uber, Bolt, and Cabs are available in the city if you prefer to use this method of transportation. We took a cab from the airport because we arrived after midnight and didn’t want to deal with trying to figure out the bus. We also took a Bolt back to the airport (as we had to be there before 5 am) and it was cheaper than the cab we took from the airport.

Where to stay

There are numerous neighborhoods to stay in while visiting Edinburgh. From Old town (very touristy and pricy) to New Town to the West End and Haymarket, you can find plenty of options based on budget and vibe. We stayed in the West End and thought the location was ideal for us and what we wanted to do. Personally, I would stay away from Old Town as it’s crazy busy and full or tourists, but if you want to be in the center of all the attractions and things to do, this is your place.

• This is the Air B+B we stayed at in the West End and loved it. It was in a great location, quiet and not touristy, but easy to get everywhere we wanted to go.

• This one, this one (in the heart of old town) and this one were also ones I marked that I liked and look nice.

• If hotels are more your thing, these come recommended (but we haven’t stayed at them so can’t verify):

  • Market Street Hotel

  • Ibis Styles St. Andrew Square

  • The Bonham

  • The Balmoral - for a five star experience

Where to Eat and Drink

We didn’t pre-book any restaurants with the exception of breakfast because I figured it would be busy, so everywhere we ate either happened upon while walking around or had been recommended to us by a local we chatted with. We took a food tour and I think this is the best way to start in any city and get a lay of the land.

FOOD

Black Sheep Coffee good coffee

Lovecrumbs go for the pastries, stay for the coffee

Geroge IV a pub in old town that serves traditional Scottish food. We had the Cullen Skink soup and Haggis, both were very good.

Oink Pulled pork sandwiches. Go early, when they run out, they close.

Gladstone’s Land Coffee and Ice Cream shop in the oldest building in Edinburgh and home to the original spice market.

The Milkman more good coffee and pastries

Mimi’s Little Bakehouse Pop in for scones and tea

Fishers in the City Great Fish and Chips

Cairngorn Coffee Great coffee and avocado toast!

Mootz General Store Italian inspired sandwiches. Split one, they are HUGE!

Greenwoods Go for brunch/breakfast, you will not be disappointed. Make sure to book a table, they get busy.

Taco Libre you know we love Mexican and will get it anywhere we can. Authentic and delicious@

Arcade Bar Haggis & Whiskey House Good haggis and Fish and chips. Also large selection of whiskey.

DRINK

Jeffrey St. Whiskey boutique assortment of whiskey and cigars. We did a whiskey tasting here and it was top notch.

St. Bernards Bar Great pub with eclectic decor. Good whiskey and has a cocktail bar upstairs.

Cambridge Bar cozy neighborhood pub

Johnnie Walker great options for whiskey tastings and amazing roof top bar. We had an incredible experience here, highly recommend.

Oxford Bar another local pub

Teuchters Bar and Bunker local pub known for showing rugby games

The Last Word go for the cocktails

What to do in Edinburgh

• Explore Old Town and Royal Mile. The Royal mile is lined with shops, pubs, museums and historical attractions. It’s very touristy, but worth some time.

• Visit Edinburgh Castle. You can’t miss this landmark towering over the city. Be sure to book your tickets in advance. They sell out daily and the only way to visit the castle is with a ticket.

• Shop and Dine in New Town. We ate most of our meals in New Town. The two main streets (George and Rose) are lined with shopping and restaurants. It’s the newer part of the city but still feels quaint.

• Take a food tour. I recommend taking a food tour anytime you visit a new city. It’s a great way to explore the local cuisine as well as get a lay of the city. We took this tour, but you can find many more at Get Your Guide and Tours by Locals.

• Take a walk along the Water of Leith. We started at Dean Village and took this scenic route towards Leith. You feel like you’ve left the city as it’s so green and lush.

• Visit the Museums. All the museums in Edinburgh are FREE to visit. You read the correctly, FREE. From the National Museum of Scotland to the National Gallery, spend some time exploring the history of Scotland and European Art.

• Climb Arthur’s Seat. We didn’t pack the right shoes to do this, but I really wanted to do this! It’s a moderate hike up an extinct volcano that boasts amazing views of the city and surrounding area. I’ve also heard it’s a great place to catch the sunrise or sunset.

• Enjoy a whisky tasting. You are in Scotland after all! We did two and both were fantastic and completely different. I highly recommend doing an experience at Johnnie Walker and also at Jeffrey St. Whisky but there are also a lot of other great places to do this as well. I would recommend not doing any near the Royal Mile though as these are very touristy.

• Take a Ghost Tour. We didn’t do this, but now I’m wishing we did. They take you underground and to some spooky spots in the city that can be really cool.

• Try Haggis. The traditional dish of haggis with neeps and tatties is a must while in the city. Some places even make a vegan version if the thought of it is just too much for you. I tried the authentic version (and I don’t typically eat red meat!) and it was tasty. While I wouldn’t be able to eat a whole portion, I did enjoy it.

• Take a Harry Potter Tour. Fan of Harry Potter? Did you know it was written in and inspired by Edinburgh? There are numerous tours you can take in the city. This one is highly rated, this one is free, and you can find them on Get your Guide as well.

Top Tips

• Summer is a popular time to visit Edinburgh, but make sure you plan around any festivals taking place, especially Fringe in August. These are extremely popular and can make finding accomodations and seeing the sights more difficult.

• Pack for variable weather. It can be sunny one minute and pouring the next. Pack for layers and definitely bring something waterproof.

• You do not need a car. You can get just about anywhere walking, taking the tub, bus, or hailing a cab.

• Edinburgh like most of Europe, does not tip for service.

• I would recommend 3 days in Edinburgh and then head out to another location like Islay, Highlands, or Speyside and spend some time in the countryside and taste whiskey.

I hope you found this helpful and if you visit Edinburgh, let me know!